Bodega Ruca Malen's two high-end offerings are outstanding. The 2007 Kinien Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 16 months in new French oak. It is a deep purple color with a nicely perfumed nose of wood smoke, mineral, a hint of balsamic, violets, black currant and blackberry. Medium- to full-bodied on the palate, it has ample savory fruit, a smooth texture, good depth, and a lengthy, pure finish. Give it 2-3 years to fully blossom and drink it through 2027. Importer: Opici Wines, Glen Rock, NJ; tel. (201) 689-3256

Piercing and sharp for Cabernet, with slightly stemmy, green aromas. That tough green character rides onto the palate, where the berry fruit is tight, juicy, tart and herbal. A snappy, piquant wine that isn’t playing up to its price tag.——M.S.(11/1/2010)—— 85