The 2009 Lealtanza Reserva has more balsamic and spicy notes, incense, hints of leather, cocoa and vanilla over some ripe black fruit. It has more depth in the palate but it’s still rather straightforward, with clean flavors and a correct finish. Drink 2014-2016. Lealtanza was created in 1998 and the first wines reached the market in 2002. These are modern wines produced with very ripe fruit. Imported by The Artisan Collection - Quality Wines From Spain, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (718) 596-0722; www.theartisancollection.us

The 2008 Lealtanza Reserva is aged for 18 months in French oak casks and then three months in large Allier oak vats. It has a well-defined bouquet of dark red cherries and licorice that carries the oak well. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple entry, rounded tannins and a decent core of toasty fruit. However, it does not really build from a promising entry, rendering the finish just a little predictable. Drink now-2017. Bodegas Altanza is a relatively recent addition to the Rioja landscape, having been established in 1998. They own around 200 hectares of vine, plus another 50 hectares under contracted vineyards. With respect to their red varieties, they are all 100% Tempranillo. The winery is located just outside the town of Fuenmayor in Rioja Alta, and from the very beginning they have raised their wines through French rather than American oak (which accounts for around 10% of aging vessels). Apart from their top blends, their range utilizes a prudent 15% new oak, i.e. a six-year cycle of barrel usage. You could describe the style of their wines as modern, but with restraint. I will begin with their "Edulis" range, which is sourced from the bodega's own vines and runs parallel to the Lealtanza wines. Edulis is aimed towards a younger generation of wine drinkers and to the off-trade, wines that are easily understandable. Altanza produces two wines aimed at the U.S. market (although they are now also available in Europe). I tasted two wines from the premium "Spanish Artists Collection," which is available in three-packs, each adorned with a different picture of the chosen artist.Importer: F.L. Navarro, The Artisan Collection, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (718) 596-0722

The 2005 Lealtanza Reserva spent 18 months in French oak and 18 months in bottle prior to release. Purple in color (typical of the 2005 vintage), brooding, and dense, it gives up a nose of pain grille, pencil lead, Asian spices, lavender, and assorted black fruits. Large-scaled and powerful on the palate, it boasts outstanding depth, volume, and length. It will amply reward 5-6 years of cellaring and deliver prime drinking from 2016 to 2025. As usual, the latest releases from Bodegas Altanza are first class. Importer: F.L. Navarro, The Artisan Collection, Brooklyn, NY; Tel. (718) 596-0722