The most palatable of the reds this time is the 2014 Gran Arzuaga, which shows more restraint, some herbal aromas and contained ripeness. It's nutty and spicy, medium to full-bodied and has fine, mostly resolved tannins. Only 604 bottles were filled in June 2018.

Following with the 2011s, I quite liked the nose of the 2011 Gran Arzuaga, a wine that blends 75% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Albillo, and has aromas of plums, peaches, even violets and plenty of sweet spices. The palate is however dominated by oak tannins and flavors of toffee and coffee, and it might need some time in bottle to polish those edges. Extremely oaky. Better nose than palate. Wait and see. 1,755 bottles produced.

The 2010 Gran Arzuaga is a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Albillo (white) aged for 20 months in French oak barrels. It has a balsamic nose with notes of incense and cigar ash. It’s very showy and has a commercial profile, but to me the quality of the tannins does not reach those of the Amaya – these feel drying, somehow more rustic. Nevertheless, it’s a good example of modern, well-oaked Ribera. It has concentration and fruit to age, and should get more polished when the tannins get resolved with time in bottle. Drink 2015-2019. Arzuaga-Navarro offers a parade of very well-crafted, well-oaked commercial wines of great success. The Amaya label feels different, though. Importers: Frederic Wildman Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212)355-0700, www.fredericwildman.com and United Cellars Inc, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 591-1416

The 2009 Gran Arzuaga is a blend of 75% Tempranillo and 25% Albillo/Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 22 months in new French oak. Here, the cooperage totally dominates the aromatics, which could come from anywhere. The palate is dense and very oaky, which is a shame because the blend is intriguing. It ends up rather generic. Drink now-2017. Bodegas Arzuarga Navarro was founded by Florentino Arzuarga in 1993. They offer a reliable portfolio of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reservas that are perhaps a little too polished and occasionally fall into the trap of relying on excessive French oak. However, I found them to be cleanly made. Only the Crianza is imported into the United States, although I found the time to taste all their current releases. Importer: This was being imported by Fine Wine Imports, but I was informed that this has recently ceased.

The 2008 Gran Arzuaga is one of the better wines from the DO in this vintage. Sourced from two single vineyards planted with 80-year-old vines, it contains 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Albillo (a white grape) in addition to the Tempranillo. The wine spent 20 months in mostly French oak. It offers up an alluring perfume of sandalwood, Asian spices, incense, and blackberry leading to an elegant, complex, spicy wine with good volume, precision balance, and a lengthy, pure finish. Give it another 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it through 2023. Importer: Carlos Montalvo, Fine Wine Imports, San Juan, PR; Tel. (787) 782-8008