Even if it felt like an unbottled sample, the 2012 Amaya Arzuaga, the haute-couture bottling of Tempranillo with some 5% Albillo from old and very low yielding vines, was clearly the best wine from the lineup I tasted. The full clusters fermented in 5,500-liter oak vats followed by malolactic and 19 months in 14 brand new French barriques. It's perfumed and heady, ripe without excess, and in an oaky style that seems to be the house signature. It felt riper and riper as it sat in the glass, which made me hesitate. The palate is full bodied, with abundant fine-grained tannins. It needs time. 2,300 bottles produced.

The nose of the 2011 Amaya Arzuaga is always different. Floral and showy, and in this ripe vintage there is a mineral, diesel-like note that is a bit disconcerting, but otherwise quite attractive. The whole clusters fermented in tanks and were foot trodden. The wine matured in brand new French oak barrels for 19 months. That obviously lent the wine plenty of aromas and tannins, and it might need some more time in bottle to get polished. 2,260 bottles produced.

The 2010 Amaya Arzuaga, is Tempranillo with 5% Albillo fermented in whole-clusters that were foot- trodden and aged in 14 new French oak barrels for 19 months. It has a flowery, showy nose with aromas of violets, and blueberries, is quite balsamic, with touches of mint, cola nut, sweet spices and smoke from the barrels. The palate is full-bodied with sophisticated tannins and good freshness and acidity. Very long. This is a Ribera with elegance and power and everything needed to have a long life in bottle. As all wines from Arzuaga, it is quite oaky, but here patience will surely pay off. Spectacular! Drink 2015-2025. Arzuaga-Navarro offers a parade of very well-crafted, well-oaked commercial wines of great success. The Amaya label feels different, though. Importers: Frederic Wildman Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212)355-0700, www.fredericwildman.com and United Cellars Inc, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 591-1416

The 2009 Amaya Arzuaga is a blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Albillo from Quintanilla de Onesimo that is aged in new French oak for 19 months. Although the oak is dominant, it does retain a good level of definition and freshness, so I would be inclined to leave this for two years in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with luscious ripe tannins. It is very well-balanced, the oak playing a complementary role to the succulent blackberry, cassis and strawberry fruit, although the finish needs to develop a little more tension and complexity. This is promising though. Drink 2014-2020. Bodegas Arzuarga Navarro was founded by Florentino Arzuarga in 1993. They offer a reliable portfolio of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reservas that are perhaps a little too polished and occasionally fall into the trap of relying on excessive French oak. However, I found them to be cleanly made. Only the Crianza is imported into the United States, although I found the time to taste all their current releases. Importer: This was being imported by Fine Wine Imports, but I was informed that this has recently ceased.

The 2008 Amaya Azuaga has a very well-defined nose, the fruit marrying well with the French oak (19 months) with some lovely cedar aromas complementing the black fruit profile. The palate is well-balanced with fresh, lithe black cherries and a hint of marmalade, while the finish is lively, fresh and convincing. This is excellent and should age well. Drink now-2017. Bodegas Arzuarga Navarro was founded by Florentino Arzuarga in 1993. They offer a reliable portfolio of Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reservas that are perhaps a little too polished and occasionally fall into the trap of relying on excessive French oak. However, I found them to be cleanly made. Only the Crianza is imported into the United States, although I found the time to taste all their current releases. Importer: This was being imported by Fine Wine Imports, but I was informed that this has recently ceased.