Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels, the 2009 Reserva is pure Tempranillo from a dry, low-yielding vintage. It opens to a strong, acute nose of licorice and hints of wet fur and used leather. The palate is medium to full-bodied with plenty of harsh, drying tannins. 50,000 bottles.

The 2006 Reserva exhibits a similar aromatic and flavor profile but not quite the density and volume of its older sibling. It will benefit from 1-2 years of additional cellaring and drink well through 2021. Importer: F.L. Navarro, The Artisan Collection, Brooklyn, NY; Tel. (718) 596-0722

The 2006 Baigorri Reserva is a pure Tempranillo (bush vines in excess of 40 years) with malolactic in new French barrels from four different coopers where the wine ages for 18 months. The nose displays good fruit concentration with blackberry, damson, cassis and vanilla, and it is backward considering the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe, firm tannins and a dense core of black, truffle-tinged fruit. It is well-balanced with fine tension towards the powerful, sturdy finish. Drink 2016-2022. If Lopez de Heredia, steeped in history, cobwebs and black mold, lies at one end of the spectrum, the Bodegas Baigorri lies at the other. They represent the two sides of traditional and modern Rioja in 2012. Fortunately, they both make rather good wines. Although you cannot taste architecture, the multi-million euro winery of Baigorri cannot pass without mention, carved deep into the rocky hillside with panoramic views across Rioja Alavesa and its magnificent giant steps leading from its Zen-like glass entrance. However, it is first and foremost a functional design, its seven tiers over 24 meters allowing unimpeded winemaking by gravity. Indeed, that is just one facet of winemaking here, where clearly no expense is spared. Baigorri makes most Bordeaux chateaux look like run-down shacks and the winemaking is finely tuned. And I must confess that I feared this would be a vanity project, cosmetic winemaking with plenty of money but negligible soul. I found this not to be the case. While the winemaking is analyzed down to every last detail and the wines are comparatively expensive, there is patently a passionate winemaking at its concrete heart and the wines are delicious. Here, approximately 25% of the vinified crop is out-sourced under long-term contracts, with the vinification under the control of the winery. Importer: The Artisan Wine Company (US) and OW Loeb and Moreno Wines (UK)