I enjoyed the developed, balsamic and pungent character of the 2009 Gran Reserva, which showed a lot subtler on the palate, where the tannins are fully resolved after almost nine years since the harvest. This is ready now.

Very classic with the notes from the ageing in American oak barrels, the 2008 Gran Reserva displayed aromas of coconut, vanilla, leather, cherries and balsamic woods with a lactic touch. The palate feels very polished, with some balsamic flavors akin to incense and cigar ash, and resolved tannins. 72,000 bottles produced.

With a textbook, classical Rioja nose of coconut, vanilla, leather, cherries and balsamic woods with a distant lactic hint, the 2007 Gran Reserva from a harvest that saw over 400,000,000 kilos of grapes in Rioja, contains 6% Graciano and 2% Mazuelo beside the dominant Tempranillo from old vines aged in French oak barrels for 27 months. The time in oak has polished the wine but has not dried out the fruit, a problem very common in the long-aging wines, and has provided plenty of balsamic aromas, which are complicated by the time in bottle (the wine has been in bottle since November 2010). 72,000 bottles produced.

The 2006 Gran Reserva shows the effect of a ripe vintage, with notes of prunes and dark plums and as a result of the long aging in oak there are balsamic notes of incense and old furniture. The palate reveals plenty of tannins with the fruit in the background. Drink 2014-2015. Bodegas Beronia's main shareholder since 1982 is Gonzalez-Byass from Jerez. They produce five million bottles per year, which are widely available, since they export to over 100 countries. The wines are very good, if a little predictable. Imported by San Francisco Wine Exchange, USA, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 546-0484

The 2004 Gran Reserva is a blend of 90% Tempranillo, 6% Graciano and 4% Mazuelo aged for 24 months in American and French oak. There is a touch of volatility on the chocolate-scented bouquet that needs time to calm down in the glass. The palate is smooth and caressing on the entry with saturated tannins. It has a soft plush texture and a fine, supple chocolate-tinged finish that is persistent in the mouth. Drink now-2018. Importer: Henry Wine Group, Benicia, CA; www.henrywinegroup.com