A snappy, high-acid wine that pulses with red fruit aromas and flavors. It’s sheering, which is normal for the Graciano variety, but it also tastes nice while delivering a bolt of raspberry and red plum flavor. Oak comes up late, providing a counterweight of vanilla and dry spice. Nice but like all varietal Gracianos, it’s sharp and limited. ——M.S.(4/1/2011)—— 87