The 2006 Tilenus Tinto Roble is 100% Mencia. It reveals an expressive perfume of violets, cherry, raspberry, and liquid minerality. Elegant on the palate, it is silky smooth, racy, and nicely focused. It is an excellent introduction to the Mencia grape. Importer: Andres Arribas, Wine Associates, Whitehouse Station, NJ; tel. (908) 534-8946

The Tilenus wines are 100% Mencia, the indigenous red grape of Bierzo. The 2005 Tinto Roble was aged for 10-12 months in French and American oak and bottled without filtration. Dark ruby in color, it reveals an enticing nose of violets, cherry, and black raspberry. Supple and forward on the palate, it possesses some light tannin and adequate fruit but could use greater depth. The attractive red fruit flavors lead to a moderately long finish. This is a wine to drink over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Andres Arribes, Wine Associates, Whitehouse Station, NJ; (908) 534-8946

One of the finest values I have tasted from this appellation is the dense ruby/purple-tinged 2001 Crianza, made from a 60-100 year old vineyard planted with an indigenous varietal, Mencia. Aged 12-14 months in French oak, it comes across like a Spanish version of a high class Cote de Nuits Pinot Noir. The tannin is soft, and the bouquet reveals lovely floral, black cherry, raspberry, smoke, earth, and mineral scents. Medium-bodied, pure, and racy, with a certain tension to its elements, it requires careful introspection to appreciate all the nuances. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2000 Tilenus is a stylish, finesse-styled effort that clearly comes from a cool climate. Aromas of minerals, powdered rocks, red currants, and raspberries are impressive in this Pinot Noir-like effort. With good purity, medium body, and a graceful, restrained style, it will drink well for 4-5 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565