The 2009 Leirana Barrica spent 12 months in one large, 4-year-old foudre of 2500-liter capacity. Not as expressive as its unoaked sibling, it has plenty of ripe, savory fruit but the oak has yet to fully integrate and the wine is a bit compact. Perhaps another 1-2 years in bottle will bring the wine into focus. Importer: Peninsula Wines, New Rochelle, NY; www.oleimports.com

The 2007 Leirana Barrica is 100% Albarino sourced from vines averaging over 100 years of age. Light gold-colored, it offers up a smoky, mineral, and lemon-scented bouquet. Creamy on the palate, this impeccably balanced wine’s oak is completely integrated. It will drink well for several years and might even evolve but, with no track record, who can say for sure? The Forja del Salnes wines are made in a small garage by Raul Perez. Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet; info@vinosandgourmet.com

The 2006 Leirana Barrica also delivers superb aromatics with the oak slightly more in evidence. Fresh, ripe, intense, and layered with flavor, this creamy, lemon and tropical flavored wine will provide much pleasure over the next several years. Albarino does not get much better than this. Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 237-0077

The 2005 Leirana Barrica is medium straw-colored with aromas of lemon curd, spring flowers, and a hint of toast. This leads to a rich, smooth, creamy wine whose oak is well-integrated. It has outstanding depth, length, and complexity. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Importer: Jose Pastor, Vinos and Gourmet, Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 237-0077