Clean and professional, no doubt about that. There’s a tightness of the nose and palate that yields both dry aromas and zesty, bright but lean red-fruit flavors. A smack of sweet oak turns distinctly peppery and charred on the feisty back palate and finish. Gets better with airing, and could overperform with certain foods like ham or potato tortilla. ——M.S.(11/15/2008)—— 86

Warm and earthy, with a round, ripe nose. The palate is a touch on the sweet, cooked side, but it avoids being stewy or soupy and instead shows ripe black fruit, licorice and smoked meat. Quite soft and low in acid. Drink right away.——M.S.(12/15/2006)—— 85