The aromatic, clean, modern and balanced 2014 Perfume de Sonsierra might be more famous locally for its square perfume bottle, but the content is much better than what most people might expect. It's pure Tempranillo selected from one plot at 470 meters in altitude in the Valgrande zone (it might be a different one depending on the vintage) planted 99 years ago. The grapes underwent a four-day cold soak and then fermented in stainless steel followed by malolactic and 16 months of aging in new French barriques. The wine has enough concentration and power to take the élevage, and it doesn't seem to be dominated by oak, even though it's present in the shape of spicy and smoky aromas and some fine tannins. This should develop nicely in bottle. 19,360 bottles were filled in July 2016.

A wine I had never before seen is the 2013 Perfume de Sonsierra, which comes in a square, perfume-like bottle; the packaging made me think it was a banal wine, but I was wrong. It's actually very good, with great freshness and balance, still a little marked by the oak, but with a nice texture full of elegance and fine tannins. It has enough acidity and freshness to develop nicely in bottle. 6,000 bottles.

The 2009 Parfum de Sonsierra, as its name suggests, comes in a striking cubic bottle designed by fashion designer David Delfin, which is a little confusing! Aged for 17 months in new French oak, this pure Tempranillo from vines located at 590 meters above sea level, has a simple, oaky, strawberry and licorice-scented bouquet with hints of vanilla. The palate is balanced with ripe mulberry and sweet cassis fruit on the entry. Indeed, it has a rather “confectionary” like sweetness with touches of star anis and blackberry pastilles. Importer: Monsieur Touton Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 255-0674