The 2009 Pinot Noir Carlton Hill Vineyard was made with 30% whole clusters, spent 9 months in 50% new oak followed by 9 months in used barrels. It reveals darker fruit and greater structure than the Stewart bottling. Smooth-textured, plush, and lengthy, it has the balance to evolve for 1-2 years and will provide enjoyment through 2019. Boedecker Cellars is the winery of husband/wife team Athena Pappas and Stewart Boedecker. The wines are all produced from contracted fruit, fermented with native yeasts, aged for 9 months in a percentage of new oak, and then racked into neutral oak for additional aging. The wines are bottled in Stelvin screw caps in their new winery in an industrial section of Portland. Many of their wines are held back for an additional year of bottle aging.Tel. (503) 288-7752; www.boedeckercellars.com

Light in texture and broad in flavor, this exhibits ripe currant and dark plum flavors on a supple frame, lingering easily on the generous finish. Drink now through 2018. 75 cases made. -HS

Bright and jazzy, offering lively citrus and pear flavors, finishing with a layer of cream and toasty oak. Drink now through 2014. 250 cases made. -HS

This unusual Chardonnay is fermented and aged sur lie in 60 gallon stainless-steel barrels. The pleasant mix of fruit includes cucumber, melon, jicama and apple, balanced and tart. The color, already a fairly deep gold, suggests that you drink it soon.——P.G.(10/1/2010)—— 87

Light and tangy, with a crisp feel to the red berry and white pepper flavors, remaining refined on the finish. Drink now through 2013. 50 cases made. -HS