The 2008 Pinot Noir Melville comes across as a touch lean, with limited expressiveness and a compact, lean finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. The Chardonnays and Pinots are the highlights among these new releases from Bonaccorsi Wine Company. I was less enamored with the 2007 Syrahs I tasted. The Pinots are vinified with indigenous yeasts and spend 18 months in French oak barrels, 60% new for all wines except the Melville, which gets 70%.Tel. (310) 994-3207; www.bonawine.net

The luscious, floral-scented and flavored 2007 Pinot Noir Melville Vineyard possesses the most saturated color. Meaty, earthy, and spicy with plenty of blueberry and black currant fruit, this dark, formidably endowed, rich Pinot possesses sweet tannin as well as plenty of forest floor and black raspberry characteristics. Drink this impressive effort over the next 6-8 years. A strong line-up of Pinot Noirs from Bonaccorsi, these cuvees reveal distinctive personalities, but all offer impressively high quality. The alcohol content of the single vineyard wines ranges from 14.7% to 15.3%, and the pH’s go from 3.72 to 3.89. All of them spend about 15 months in French oak (40% new).Tel. (310) 994-3207