Sweet in cherry-berry fruit, this Syrah has more complex layers of smoked meats, earth, grilled mushrooms, tamari and sandalwood, brightened with crisp acidity. It’s a fine, full-bodied wine for drinking now. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 87

The 2007 Syrah Le Pousser from the Central Coast is reasonably priced, but its notes of tapenade intermixed with green olives and black cherries comes across as one-dimensional and monolithic. The wine has superficial concentration but once past the surface, there’s just not a lot of wine present. One can’t complain about the price, though. It’s good to see the highly commercial Randall Grahm finally get more serious about wine quality. Of course, he long ago laughed his way to the bank, selling hundreds of thousands of cases, promoting “terroir” while making massive quantities of commercial wines that had little evidence of any serious terroir or character. However, he seems to have found religion over the last few years. Graham has decided to offer his Cigare Volant, a California take on France’s Chateauneuf du Pape, in three formats – his regular cuvee, one aged in large, presumably old wood foudres, and one aged in smaller demi-muids (which are still bigger than conventional barrels). All three are worth buying and drinking. Each is a blend of 60% Grenache, 32% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault.Tel. (888) 819-6789