The 2009 Barolo Villero Riserva does a terrific job of portraying this special vineyard. Only seven producers make wine in the Villero cru and this is one of the nicest available on release now. Those extra years of aging have added tertiary tones of spice and licorice on top of pronounced primary aromas of dark fruit and blackcurrant. The wine is brooding, dark and masculine with round density and polished tannins. It is streamlined and elegant with compelling tones of crushed black pepper on the long finish.

Boroli has also released its 2006 Barolo Riserva Villero that offers an interesting glimpse into the longevity potential of this relatively new estate. The wine shows stylistic coherency with the others described above (these are bold and modern interpretations of Barolo) with, in this case, the added benefit of tertiary aromas: tar, licorice, balsam notes and dried fruit. Ultimately, the grittiness of the mouthfeel suggests there is still work to do. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Having already dabbled in the textile and publishing industries, Silvano and Elena Boroli (now with their son Achille) moved their attention to winemaking in the mid 1990s. They built the showcase La Brunella winery in Castiglione Falletto (the building is entirely encased in barrel staves) with state-of-the-art equipment and a panoramic tasting room. Walk onto the property and the feeling you get is more Napa Valley than Piedmont. Importer: Dalla Terra Winery Direct, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

The 2001 Barolo Villero Riserva is a big, powerful wine loaded with fruit. The tannins are equally powerful to the point of increasingly dominating the balance as the wine sits in the glass. In 2001 Boroli made two wines from Villero; a straight Barolo and a Riserva. The Riserva comes across as a bit forced. Hints of dark red berries, mint, flowers and spices struggle to emerge. The finish remains quite imposing, but I am not sure the Riserva will ever soften. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021. The Boroli family had made just a few vintages by the time 2001 rolled around. These early wines capture an early stage in the estate’s development. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Fabulous aromas of black truffle, berries, plum and strawberry tart. Full and supergenerous, with amazing concentration of fruit, yet balanced and very polished. Velvety texture. Absolutely gorgeous. Why wait? Drink now. 160 cases made, 50 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Lovely to drink now. Rose, plum and cedar aromas and flavors. Medium- to full-bodied, with silky tannins and a refined finish. Drink now. 200 cases made, 60 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add