The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape la Folie is a special cuvée that has only been made three times: in 2007, 2015 and 2016. As Nicolas Boiron points out, it's a "modern style" of Chateauneuf, completely destemmed and aged in demi-muids and barriques, with a fair proportion of those barrels being new. Mocha cedar notes mark the nose at this early age, while the flavors resemble caramelized cherries and baking spices. Full-bodied, rich, creamy and undeniably plush, it's still recognizable as Chateauneuf-du-Pape, showing velvety hints of chocolate on the long finish. The assemblage is 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre.

A blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre that's raised in a combination of demi-muids and barriques, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape la Folie boasts sumptuous aromas of vanilla and toasted almond, then adds in just enough cherry fruit to keep things lively. This full-bodied wine is rich and velvety in texture, undeniably woody, but it looks so, so promising.

Another head-turner is the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape la Folie, which is an 80/20 split of Grenache and Mourvèdre brought up mostly in foudre, with a small amount in demi-muids. This cuvee was almost overtly modern on release, yet it has evolved into a beautiful Chateauneuf du Pape that has serious levels of concentrated fruit, full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and a huge perfume of caramelized black cherries, smoked herbs, licorice and leather. Like the other wines here, it’s impeccably balanced and will keep for at least another decade.