Unwinding in the glass with aromas of cherries, plums, smoked meats and spices, the 2018 Santenay Rouge is medium to full-bodied, youthfully chewy and tangy, distinguishing itself as one of the most rustic wines in the portfolio this year. It's a hearty red Burgundy, but it isn't long on complexity or finesse.

The 2017 Santenay Rouge exhibits aromas of cherry, plum pit and raw cocoa, followed by a medium to full-bodied wine structured around fine but chalky tannins and tangy acids.

I was impressed with Bouchard's bright medium-to-dark ruby-colored Santenay. It exhibits a sweet black cherry and violet-infused nose as well as a medium-bodied and juicy character filled with gorgeously ripe red and black cherries that linger in the finish. It will be at its best if drunk over the next 3-4 years. Bouchard's qualitative resurgence continues. It is extremely gratifying to see the efforts put forth by Joseph Henriot, this negociant's new owner and the talented duo of Misters Hervet and Prost, respectively the firm's director and wine-maker. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel (212) 888-7575.