Brovia Rocche dei Brovia Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

布洛維亞酒莊洛奇巴羅洛紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：8273

The 2009 Barolo Rocche takes us in a new direction thanks to its seductive bouquet that is woven tight with menthol tones and dried ginger backed by savory scents of leather, tobacco, sweet spice and licorice. The wine shows added complexity and nuance. I’m sure these tones will shape up nicely in the cellar. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Spaniard Alex Sanchez is Piedmont’s favorite expat winemaker. His entree into the world of Barolo is by marriage, but his story fits seamlessly into the tale of father-and-son succession that drives this storied wine region. Brovia was founded in 1863 by grandfather Giacinto Brovia who left the property to his son Antonio. The heir died prematurely and the winery ceased to function for 20 years until Antonio’s son (named Giacinto after his grandfather) was able to restart the legacy. One of Giacinto’s two daughters, Elena, was next to take the baton. Her husband, MBA graduate Alex Sanchez, was quickly folded into the fray and has since become the soul (and smile) of the estate. The current lineup shows some exciting highlights (notably the Barolo Ca’ Mia with its exceptional beauty) but, all in all, the wines were not at the levels I had anticipated. The traditional style of the wine, normally so fine, silky and elegant, tasted thin and lean instead – possibly the result of those firm, slightly unhinged, 2009 tannins. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (518) 207-9100

The 2007 Barolo Rocche emerges from the glass with freshly cut roses, sweet berries and spices. The Rocche is always the most open of Brovia’s single vineyard Baroli. In 2007 the wine has an extra dimension of textural richness that makes it incredibly appealing even at this young stage. Floral notes reappear on the silky, pure finish. This is a fabulous showing, but the wine will be even better in a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Brovia’s 2007 Baroli are just as impressive from bottle as they were when I tasted them from barrel late last year. The straight Barolo is always the last to be bottled. I will report on that wine as soon as I have had a chance to taste it. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990