The medium ruby-colored 1995 Barbaresco Gallina offers aromas of tobacco, kirsch liqueur, cedar wood, fruitcake, and spicy, rose petal-like notes. Medium to full-bodied, with surprising intensity and richness for such a light-colored wine, it exhibits ripe fruit (cherries galore), a lush texture, and moderate tannin in the long finish. The alcohol tips the scales at 13.5%. This offering should be drunk over the next decade.This wine is evolved, with more limited aging potential than Giacosa's wines from such great vintages as 1990, 1989, 1988, and 1978.I suspect readers are in for some exquisite wines from the 1996 and 1997 vintages from Piedmont's most notable guardian of traditional winemaking - Bruno Giacosa. This release includes several wines from the 1996 vintage, but it is also apparent that Giacosa has done reasonably well in the more difficult years of 1995 and 1993. Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620