Villa Bucci Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva DOCG, Marche, Italy

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A certified organic wine, the 2019 Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva Classico Villa Bucci reveals exceptional elegance in this balanced vintage. Fruit comes from a 5.5-hectare site with typical calcareous clay soils, and winemaking sees a combination of stainless steel for fermentation and neutral oak for aging. The bouquet opens to tropical fruit, preserved lemon, quince and pie crust. On second nose, you get hints of petroleum and white licorice over a mid-weight mouthfeel. Only 8,000 bottles were made in this vintage.

The organic Villa Bucci 2018 Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva Classico Villa Bucci (with 23,000 bottles released) starts off in stainless steel but ends its winemaking phase in neutral oak casks. This extra step serves to give more volume and texture to a wine that is redolent of stone fruit, grapefruit, papaya, exotic saffron and dried ginger.

From the estate's oldest Verdicchio vines, fruit is specially selected for this beautifully lush and generous Riserva. The Villa Bucci 2014 Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva Classico Villa Bucci offers broad shoulders and deep texture with apricot, orchard fruit, saffron and some toasted nut. Aging takes place over 18 months in precious 70-year-old oak barrels preserved in the Villa Bucci winery. The wine's robust constitution would pair well with any seafood dish, but try it with a brodetto marchigiano: a local soup of mixed fish, shellfish, green pepper, tomato and onion. Some 14,000 bottles were made.

The estate's 2008 Verdicchio dei Catelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Villa Bucci posesses stunning depth and beauty. Texturally vivid and layered, the 2008 impresses for its fabulous overall balance. The aromas and flavors are still very much vibrant. Readers who like a little more tertiary complexity should cellar the 2008 for another year or two. Today, the 2008 is totally gorgeous. I imagine the 2008 will find a place in the most discerning of cellars and restaurant wine lists. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Ampelio Bucci's wines have always had tons of appeal. Bucci's strength is Verdicchio, and these two new releases, are flat-out delicious. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

The 2007 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Riserva Villa Bucci is a rich, full-bodied Verdicchio graced with layers of rich, expressive fruit. Light honeyed tones add complexity as the aromas and flavors build on the creamy, expansive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Bucci is a reference point winery for the Marche. The Verdicchios in particular are standouts. While readers are likely to drink these wines pretty much upon release, they do have an ability to age gracefully. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900