Here's a wine unlike any I have tasted in Italy. As the name suggests, the 2008 Carmenero is a pure expression of Carménère, a grape not often found in Italy. The folks at metodo classico sparkling wine house Ca' del Bosco propose this thickly extracted, velvety and rich red wine that stands in stark contrast to the ethereal, luminous bubbly wines that make up the core of their portfolio. Instead, here you get dried blackberry, plum, tobacco and black olive.

This unusual table wine is a Carmenere, the aloof Bordeaux variety found almost exclusively in Chile. That it comes from an Italian sparkling wine producer is odd. As for the wine, it’s got color and body along with strong vegetal aromas and flavors. Looks and feels right; smells and tastes not as good. ——M.S.(11/15/2004)—— 85