The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Dancing Bear Ranch includes 5% Merlot. Scents of pine bark, cedar, cherries and faint herbal notes appear on the nose, while the wine is medium to full-bodied in the mouth, ripe and concentrated, even a touch creamy on the mid-palate, then long and mouthwatering on the finish. Reasonably complex and concentrated, with an appealing texture, this is a relatively charming wine for Howell Mountain, approachable in its youth.

The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Dancing Bear Ranch, from a vineyard on Howell Mountain, is the darkest and deepest of these offerings from Cakebread. Sweet grilled herbs, flowers, oak and raspberry jam are some of the nuances that emerge from this vivid, textured wine. It possesses striking inner perfume and fabulous balance from start to finish. This is all power and class. In 2008 the final blend includes 5% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Tel. (800) 588-0298

The dense purple-colored 2007 Dancing Bear Ranch Proprietary Red (80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc) reveals more chocolate fudge and coffee notes. It does not have the nuances or complexity of the Benchland Select or the sheer joy of the Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, but there is a lot going on in this cuvee. Slightly monolithic, it is well-endowed, rich and full, so my rating may be slightly conservative.This benchmark winery has again turned out some impressive wines.Tel. (800) 588-0298; Fax (707) 967-8620