The 2009 Chardonnay Bench Break is a rich, lush wine laced with expressive tropical fruit. It shows excellent depth all the way through to the round, enveloping finish. The Bench Break was fermented in oak barrels (55% new) and aged on its lees with batonnage for ten months. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Tel. (888) 339-9463; www.cambriawines.com

The outstanding 2008 Chardonnay Bench Break has delicate yet substantial fruit flavors, a light green hue to its straw color, terrific minerality, floral notes, honeyed citrus, and tropical fruits. It is rich and full-bodied, but a Chardonnay of finesse as well as power. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (888) 339-9463

A bit heavy-handed in the high alcohol that gives a touch of heat, which in turn accentuates the oak. Soft, too. The tropical fruit flavors are opulent, but the wine needs greater structural balance.——S.H.(10/1/2009)—— 86