Smells bright, citrusy and clean, an impression followed in the mouth, where intricate flavors of pineapple, lemondrop candy and Key lime pie turn spicy on the finish. The acidity is brisk; the wine did not go through malolactic fermentation. Just shows that a great Chardonnay doesn’t need oak, although sur lies aging gives it a notable creaminess. ——S.H.(7/1/2010)—— 91
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