There are only two barrels of the superb 2004 Bue Apis (100% Aglianico), which is made from vines that are over 180 years old. Made in a full-bodied, yet nuanced style, it possesses layers of dark cherries, grilled herbs, licorice, flowers and toasted oak that flow onto the palate with superb concentration and depth. Bue Apis is one of the most remarkable Aglianicos being made today, and the 2004 is not to be missed. It saw fermentation/maceration lasting more than 40 days followed by 18 months in new French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2024. Cantina del Taburno is one of Campania’s most promising estates. The winery is a cooperative and quality can be variable, but the top wines compete with the best being made anywhere. Filippo Colandrea is the oenologist.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2003 Bue Apis (100% Aglianico) is another big, strapping wine from Cantina del Taburno. It’s perhaps a little gamier than the 2004 but its characteristic profile of black cherries, earthiness, tobacco, grilled herbs and toasted oak comes through with notable depth on the palate. The tannins are still very clenched so another year or two at a minimum is necessary for the wine to come into focus. Bue Apis is made from vines that are over 180 years old. It sees fermentation/maceration lasting more than 40 days and 18 months in new French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2021. Cantina del Taburno is one of Campania’s most promising estates. The winery is a cooperative and quality can be variable, but the top wines compete with the best being made anywhere. Filippo Colandrea is the oenologist.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2001 Bue Apis is almost purple in color, fully spiced on its rich nose of raspberries and blackberries, very ample and long on the palate with the dense texture and velvety tannins which distinguish the wines of this grape, even if the mineral and truffle notes which Aglianico expresses on other soils are not present here. Drink: 2005-2016.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The outstanding 2000 Bue Apis Aglianico Benevento (100% Aglianico) was aged in 100% new French oak. It is a dense, full-bodied, concentrated effort with notes of licorice, creosote, blackberries, and cassis. While it borders on being internationally-styled, it reveals this terroir's roasted earth characteristics. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Impressive!A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700; and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411