The 2008 Lagrein Riserva Porphyr is very pretty in this vintage. Bacon fat, crushed rocks, blackberries and licorice all come alive in the glass. There is a tension in the 2008 that is palpable. At the same time, most of the wilder notes typical of Lagrein have been tamed. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. These new releases from Cantina di Terlano are impressive. As much as I admire the top wines, I simply adore the entry-level bottlings for their unbeatable combination of quality, value and regional/varietal typicity.Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (212) 268-0906

The 2007 Lagrein Riserva Porphyr is quite a bit weightier and richer than the Riserva Gries. An array of mineral-infused dark fruit, cured meats, ash and crushed rocks meld together beautifully in this taut, focused Lagrein. As delicious as the Porphyr is, I am not sure it is an appreciably better, more interesting or more pleasurable wine than the Riserva Gries. I know which of the two I would prefer to drink. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. The most impressive wines I tasted this year from Alto Adige came from Cantina di Terlano. Simply put, these are reference point wines. I can’t imagine these wines not being represented in any serious cellar.Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899

The 2006 Lagrein Riserva Porphyr is perfumed and delicate in its mineral-infused blackberries, scorched earth, minerals and flowers. This is a relatively subdued vintage for Porphyr yet the wine flows with gorgeous balance and persistence. The finish is refined and polished. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899

Terlano’s 2005 Lagrein Riserva Porphyr is a showstopper. Deeply-colored to the core, it flows from the glass with masses of dark fruit, herbs, licorice, toasted oak and minerals. Expansive and generous on the palate, it possesses stunning depth, purity and sheer class, with gorgeous minerality that lingers on the long, elegant finish. Today the tannins come across as needing a little more time to integrate so further bottle age is likely to be beneficial. This is a reference-point Lagrein. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Cantina di Terlano is a reference-point producer for fine wines in Alto Adige. This cooperative’s entry-level bottlings are reviewed in Issue 178. The top selections are regularly among the finest wines in Italy.Importer: Banville & Jones Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (204) 294-4899