The 2009 Aglianico Irpinia Tari is a tasty, entry-level Aglianico laced with super-ripe dark fruit. As always, the Tari presents a fairly tamed version of Aglianico that favors fruit over varietal complexity. In 2009 there is a touch less richness than is typically the case, which exposes tannins that dry out a bit on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Antonio Caggiano makes gorgeous wines that show the more refined side of Campania's indigenous grapes. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The Aglianico Irpinia Tari doesn’t hold anything back in 2008, and that may be an understatement. This is a dark, brooding Tari loaded with wild cherries, earthiness, licorice, leather and tobacco. There is impressive richness and concentration in the glass, yet elements of rusticity detract from the overall balance. This is a bit of an awkward showing for the Tari, which leads me to believe the wine may still be recovering from its recent bottling. Two bottles tasted. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Caggiano is one of Campania’s leading producers. The strengths here are the reds, which are some of the most up-front, immediate Aglianicos readers are likely to come across.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2006 Aglianico dell’Irpinia Tari shows tons of Aglianico character in a plump, approachable style. Floral aromatics meld into wild cherries, new leather and spices as the wine opens up in the glass. Ideally this layered, fruit-driven red is best enjoyed on the young side, while it remains vibrant. The Tari is aged in neutral French oak barrels. Year after year the Tari is one of the great values in Italian wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. Antonio Caggiano makes some of the most delicious and accessible Aglianicos in Campania, making his wines a great choice for readers who want to explore one of Italy’s most fascinating grapes. Caggiano offers three selections of Aglianico. The entry-level Tari, the Salae Domini and the top-of-the-line Taurasi Macchia dei Goti.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2005 Aglianico dell’ Irpinia Tari is a beautiful entry-level wine from Campania. Dark fruit, leather, tobacco, sweet spices and herbs all flow from this soft, round Aglianico that is meant to be enjoyed on the young side, in relative terms for this variety. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Proprietor Antonio Caggiano makes his wines in an accessible, refined style. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411