The 2009 Marche Rosso Carapetto, a selection from the estate's old Cabernet Sauvignon vines, bursts from the glass with juicy dark plums, blackberry jam, spices and licorice. It possesses striking inner perfume, sweetness and plenty of opulence, such that the Cabernet tannins are virtually imperceptible. This is yet another strong showing from Fontezoppa. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. Fontezoppa is an excellent source for wines that capture the essence of the many varieties - both red and white - that are indigenous in the Marche. Today, the entry-level and mid-tier wines offer the greatest consistency, but I think it is just a matter of time before the higher-end wines are more dialed in. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922

The 2008 Marche Rosso Carapetto is Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 12 months in French oak. It shows good depth and vibrancy, but little in the way of varietal typicity. Still, it is impossible to deny the wine's excellent sense of balance. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. These are the first wines I have tasted from Fontezoppa. Quality is inconsistent throughout the range but the best wines merit attention. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922