The 2009 Vall del Calas is composed of 70% Merlot, 25% Garnacha, and 5% Tempranillo aged for 11 months in a mix of new and used French oak. It sports an already complex bouquet of smoke, spices, incense, and assorted black fruits. This is followed by a layered, succulent wine with loads of spicy fruit, a firm structure, and a lengthy, pure finish. It is likely to evolve for 1-2 years and will drink well through 2021. Celler de Capcanes is one of the leading estates of Montsant and arguably one of the great producers of Kosher wine this side of Manischewitz. This unusual story began in 1995 when the Jewish community of Barcelona asked Capcanes if they could produce a Kosher wine. The installation of new equipment allowed for the production of Kosher wine but also high quality wines from the old vine Garnacha and Carinena grown in the local villages by the 80 members of the cooperative. While the Kosher wines put Capcanes on the map, it represents only 2% of the production and now it is the other 98% which drives the business. The following wines were tasted during my visit to Celler de Capcanes in January, 2011. Importer for the non-Kosher wines is Eric Solomon Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565; Importer for the Kosher wines is Royal Wine, Bayonne, NJ; tel. (718) 384-2400

The 2007 Vall del Calas is a blend of 60% Merlot, 35% Garnacha, and 5% Tempranillo aged for 11 months in seasoned French oak. Deep crimson-colored, it sports a nose of wood smoke, spice box, black cherry, and black currant. Ripe and layered on the palate, it supplies plenty of succulent, spicy fruit, ripe tannin, and excellent length. It will be at its best from 2011 to 2019. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2006 Vall del Calas is 60% Merlot, 35% Garnacha, and 5% Tempranillo aged for 11 months in seasoned French oak. The nose exhibits cinnamon, clove, cedar, cherries, and currants. On the palate it is a bit shallow and compact. The difference between the two wines reveals the importance of old-vine Garnacha for the wines of Montsant and Priorat. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars. Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

The 2004 Vall del Calas is 60% Merlot, 35% Garnacha, and 5% Tempranillo aged for 11 months in a mix of new and used French oak. Opaque purple-colored, the nose reveals toast, smoke, blueberry, and black cherry. Ripe, forward, and easy-going this is a wine to enjoy over the next 4-6 years. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565