From the middle section of its site, Loewen’s 2006 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spatlese A.P. #14 smells of orange blossom, narcissus, tangerine zest, yellow plum, and fresh lemon. Clear and juicy on the palate, its inflections of brown spice and crushed stone segue into a savory salinity and overt wet stone character. The minerality and spice have a tactile dimension – albeit against a background of subtle creaminess – and musky, animal notes reminiscent of the wine’s florality lend an aura of intrigue in the finish. The sweetness is supportive and unobtrusive and this should be viewed as an accompaniment to cuisine right out of the starting gate, and over the next 12-15 years at least. The Mosel’s greatest champion of once-great but recently-neglected sites and one of German viticulture’s most tireless outside-the-box thinkers in the search for quality, Karl-Josef Loewen took extra efforts in 2006 including adding supplemental pickers who helped him harvest in only ten days. He did not begin until October 8, believing that “before then, the ripeness just wasn’t there.” Loewen is notoriously fearless when it comes to harvesting botrytis, but he tended toward more whole-cluster pressing than usual to help guard against impure elements of rot. In an exciting development, beginning this year, Loewen is taking the lead with Carl Schmitt-Wagner in farming the latter’s ancient Riesling in Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300