Loewen was at great pains to see that “beautiful green-golden berries” that remained in the Ritsch were part of the otherwise botrytized mix that informed his 2006 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Beerenauslese. Yellow plum, white peach and grapefruit; gardenia, orange blossom, and musky narcissus on the nose set the tone for a luscious yet positively refreshing palate, silken in texture and seductively expansive. Vanilla, nut paste, and quince preserves are perfectly complemented by brown spices, exotic, musky floral perfume, and wood smoke that waft throughout, and the finish captures the sort of elegance, refinement, and lift shared by virtually all of the very greatest 2006s. If you imagine a great Vouvray moelleux with Mosel delicacy and hints of slate, you have an inkling of what awaits you from this highly distinctive Riesling and reflection of a great site. But it is almost an affront to offer such a description of this multifaceted wine, which you’ll need to taste for yourself. I suspect it will flourish for 40 or more years. (I can’t help remarking at the present juncture – although this example is hardly unique – that the, in some ways, impressive new Weinatlas Deutschland of German journalists Braatz, Sautter, and Swoboda, classifies Ritsch in the third and lowest category on which they provide any details. Evidently, neither this site’s historical stature nor Loewen’s exemplifications entered into their thinking or informed their ranking!) The Mosel’s greatest champion of once-great but recently-neglected sites and one of German viticulture’s most tireless outside-the-box thinkers in the search for quality, Karl-Josef Loewen took extra efforts in 2006 including adding supplemental pickers who helped him harvest in only ten days. He did not begin until October 8, believing that “before then, the ripeness just wasn’t there.” Loewen is notoriously fearless when it comes to harvesting botrytis, but he tended toward more whole-cluster pressing than usual to help guard against impure elements of rot. In an exciting development, beginning this year, Loewen is taking the lead with Carl Schmitt-Wagner in farming the latter’s ancient Riesling in Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300

I was less than fully convinced by this year’s heavily botrytised Laurentiuslay Beerenauslese, but Loewen’s 2005 Thornicher Ritsch Riesling Beerenauslese was another story. Quince jelly, candied lime peel, and marzipan aromas lead to a pure, quince and honey impression on the palate, setting up a counterpoint with alkaline, salty mineral notes. Vanilla cream, quince preserves, orange and lemon candy, malt and caramel inform a rich, long and multi-layered finish, buoyed by just enough acidity. I would not hesitate to cellar this for 15 or 20 years.Also recommended: 2005 Riesling Alte Reben ($ unknown; 84+?), 2005 Detzemer Maximiner Klosterlay Riesling “Christopher’s Wine” ($ unknown; 85+?), 2005 Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Beerenauslese (unavailable; 86).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300