EDITOR: SHACH'S NOTE ONLY LISTS "Italy" AS THE DOC/APP The nose offers celery seed, bread dough, vanilla and pear. In the mouth, this Chardonnay-based sparkler is taught and tangy, with orange and pineapple flavors. That tang carries out to the end, where the bright acidity really shines. For fans of cool bottles; the tall, thin vessel is unique and should grace any table. ——M.S.(6/1/2003)—— 84