Quinta do Casal Branco Tinto Touriga Nacional, Ribatejo, Portugal

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The 2009 Tinto is a blend of Castelao, Cabernet Sauvignon, Touriga Nacional and Alicante Bouschet. There were some 11,000 cases of this imported – so this inexpensive little charmer should be accessible. Clean and tasty, yet with a touch of steel, a little sharpness and hint of underlying earthiness to it, it shows beautifully at the moment and certainly will meet or exceed any expectations from its price category. It manages both a little character and a tasty fruit. Modestly concentrated, it has soft tannins and sensual texture. My experience is that these do hold for 5-7 years from vintage date, maybe more, but that they peak early and don’t reward cellaring. They are at peak near release and within a year or two. So, theory aside, drink up. Drink now-2015. Importers: For all wines except Quartilho and Capoeira brands: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; for Quartilho and Capoeira wines only: Vino Cava, LLC, Wayne, PA; tel. (610) 688-8415

The 2008 Tinto is a blend of Castelao (30%), Trincadeira (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Alicante Bouschet (20%) and Touriga Nacional (10%) Often an extremely good value, coming in at a dirt cheap price and providing a classy, elegant feel, this wine delivers real bang for the buck this year as well. Light in the mid-palate, it is nonetheless persistent, not immediately fading or thinning. Indeed, there is an obvious tannic punch on the finish and it seems quite gripping, at least in its youth, as well as bright and crisp. The flavors are very intense in its youth - considering that half the wine is made from Alicante Bouschet and Castelao, that is no surprise. Expect it to calm down a bit by mid 2011, but note that its structure and graceful demeanor always make it seem like real wine. It should hold rather well for a wine in this price range, but it will still likely be best now and in the next year or two. Considering that there were over 10,000 cases imported (roughly one third of its production), this is a worthwhile pickup that should be easy to latch onto. Drink now-2014. Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155

The 2007 TINTO is beautifully textured, bright and bursting with flavor. Ok—there isn’t much depth or concentration here. Most wines in this price range don’t have much, and this is no exception. However, this blend of Castelao (30%), Trincadeira (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%), Alicante Bouschet (20%) and Touriga Nacional (10%) is focused and tasty, seeming like real wine, with a bit of punch, while being fragrant and fruity. One warning—for a wine in this price range, this is a little different. That is, it is very well structured and has a lot of acidity (at times it is a little tart) and tannin, something that will appeal to those with empty pockets looking for a wine with a serious mien, rather than a simple, low end fruit bomb. This has some intensity. Drink now-2012. Casal Branco, little known in the USA, is one of the more familiar names in its region. It is fast becoming a favorite of mine for its ability to deliver reasonably interesting wines for extremely modest money. These modestly priced wines are cases in point.Importer: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, N.Y.; tel: (914) 664-3155.

The estate wine from Casal Branco is impressive and structured, with dried berry fruits, dark, dry tannins and a solid structure. The acidity is very present, helping to keep the wine fresh, but the complex dark flavors and spice are certainly there to allow the wine to age over the next 3–4 years.——R.V.(4/1/2008)—— 91