The 2007 Roero Riserva Valmaggiore shows lovely depth and roundness in its black cherries, flowers and licorice, all of which flow effortlessly through to the plush, inviting finish. This is another strong effort from Cascina Chicco. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2001 Roero, very floral and tarry on the nose, is long, solid, and deep in flavor, but slightly closed up and inexpressive at the moment. I had the misfortune of tasting it just after bottling, but these wines, in general, are released far too early for Nebbiolo of structure and stature, and it is highly likely that the wine will improve. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2014. Importer: William Grant & Sons, Edison, NJ; tel. (732) 225-9000

Quite dark in color, this densely aromatic and flavored red delivers lots of blackberry, plum and oak notes on the nose, followed by black-cherry and chocolate flavors. The mouthfeel is rich, but with a tangy acidity that keeps it lively, and the finish is long. It lacks the pedigree of some top Piedmontese wines but delivers more flavor and texture than many more familiar names.——M.M.(9/1/2000)—— 89