I love the classic design of this wine label. The 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva (a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo) has some of that tarry earth or asphalt that we saw in the other releases from this estate. In this case, however, they are better balanced against dark fruit, black olive and grilled herb. This 23,300-bottle production represents a selection of fruit from across a five-hectare parcel.

Boasting a fun and very contemporary wine label, the 2017 Chianti Classico Riserva Torre a Destra is 100% Sangiovese and is very heavy on the oak. It's a bit too much. The wine has dark fruit and cherry from the hot vintage framed by thick layers of toasted spice, carpentry shop and candied chestnut. It ages in new French oak for 24 months, and the results leave no doubt. This is a production of 6,400 bottles.

The Castello della Paneretta 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva sees Sangiovese blended with a tiny part Canaiolo. This expression is a little flat with air dried aromas of wild fruit, plum, green olive, earth and a touch of cypress tree or rosemary essence. The wine retreats to a formal, classic personality that reminds of some of the Chianti Classicos made 10 or 20 years ago. It also feels a bit more aged than expected. Pair it with a beef bourguignon.

The 2015 Chianti Classico Riserva opens quickly and completely in the glass to reveal a robust, exuberant and very immediate approach. The bouquet shows a touch of that black olive or scorched earth that I got in the 2016 Chianti Classico (the base wine), however those aromas don't stick out with the same intensity here. Instead, this wine seems to offer more fullness and concentration with extra fruit layers that dominate the bouquet. It calls out for a pasta with veal ragù. The blend is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo. Some 25,000 bottles were made.

The Castello della Paneretta 2014 Chianti Classico Riserva is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo. The bouquet here is very distinctive, thanks to a wild side that is presented with balsam and medicinal herb. Those tones segue to black licorice and tar. For sure, this wine offers less primary fruit compared to the more exuberant and juicy 2015 vintage. But if you like those delicate nuances, as I do, you will agree that this wine does a great job in a difficult vintage. I would hold off from cellaring it for too long, because I believe it will offer the best drinking experience in the near term. Some 26,000 bottles were made.