Camigliano's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gualto is a dark, saturated and compact wine that shows a very unique interpretation of the Sangiovese grape. Camigliano occupies one of the best microclimates for dark, velvety and opulent Brunello that does very nicely in a classic vintage like 2010 with a slower overall growth cycle. The plump fruit stands up nicely to the firm tannins and acidity of the mouthfeel. In all, this is a balanced wine with softness and extra richness.

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gualto is a beautifully compact and stitched-up wine with great balance and intensity overall. The bouquet shows pretty aromas of cherry, blackberry, spice, licorice and wet earth that fit together like an intricate jigsaw puzzle. The wine is just as compelling in the mouth with soft tannins, good richness and a fine point of acidity that adds focus to the entire presentation. There are added nuances derived from the oak, as there are from the warm 2009 vintage. Both contribute to the wine's softness. Overall, the wine offers a good sense of balance and steadiness.

The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Gualto comes across as ripe and oaky in this vintage. It has plenty of depth and richness, but less in the way of definition or elegance. Some of the overt oakiness blows off over time, yielding to pretty notes of sweet dark cherries, rose petals and spices, all in the textured style that is typical of the vintage. Still, a measure of excitement is missing. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gualto comes across as compact and linear, with little of the expressiveness I expect from this important vintage. There is some dark fruit, but little in the way of real excitement. I am not sure this wine ever had the stuffing to support 36 months in cask. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200