The 2009 Primitivo Piluna opens with an explosive burst of dark red fruit. The Piluna is a beautifully balanced Primitivo, with plenty of richness but little of the heaviness or stewed character that plagues so many other interpretations of Italy's version of Zinfandel. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. Castello Monaci makes some of the most consistently excellent wines in southern Italy. As good as the wines can be, it would be nice to see the estate take the next step in expressing the unique qualities of Puglia's indigenous red grapes.Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 2008 Primitivo Piluna comes across as a bit light in this vintage. The style is somewhat fleeting, although the plums, tobacco and perfumed spices are quite attractive. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. This year’s releases from Castello Monaci are quite good, but not as uniformly successful as they have been in recent years, particularly among the entry-level bottlings.Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 2007 Primitivo Piluna flows from the glass with waves of dark red fruit. This generous, ripe wine should continue to drink well for at least another year or two. It is another incredibly delicious value-priced red from Castello Monaci. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. I continue to be deeply impressed with the wines of Castello Monaci. These reds offer tons of varietal character, and the entry-level bottles are among the finest values in Italian wine today.Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700