This savory red shows density and focus. Espresso, cedar, licorice and loamy earth notes frame a core of plum and black olive flavors, supported by firm tannins and balsamic acidity. Drink now through 2022. 3,333 cases made, 600 cases imported.??–TM??Region: Spain / Empordà Select to Add

The single-vineyard 2011 Finca Malave?na (literally meaning the "bad neighbor estate!") is a Bordeaux blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc from clay soils matured in new French oak barriques for 14 months. Unfortunately the barrique is the real main character in the film and it steals the show with charred and smoky aromas, toast, vanilla, plenty of spices and even sawdust and coconut. Go for it if you love oaky reds. This is probably a commercial success. 44,429 bottles produced.

The 2010 Finca Malaveina is a blend of 30% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Syrah and 10% Garnacha from a single vineyard with red clay soils aged in new French oak barrels for 17 months. It feels serious and balanced, a little backward, a little anonymous, with a mixture of red and black fruit aromas, and plenty of oak-related aromas that make a strong comeback in the palate with some warmth and abundant tannins that provide a slightly drying finish. For once the fruit seems able to overcome the wood aging. Wait. Drink 2015-2020. Castillo Perelada has been for many years the leading winery in Emporda, as it was created back in 1923. The winery produces a wide range of still and sparkling wines. They work 126 hectares of vineyards and produce an average of 1.5 million bottles per year. The wines have a commercial profile and tend to be quite marked by the oak aging, but some, like the 2011 Ex Ex 10, can be truly exceptional. Importer: Perelada Comercial MHW, Ltd., Manhasset, NY; tel. (516) 869-9170

The 2009 Finca Malaveina is a blend of 40% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Syrah (clones from La Landonne in the Cote-Rotie) and 10% Garnacha that is grown from young vines planted on red clay soils in the locale of “Garriguella.” It has a very intense, voluminous bouquet with blackberry, dark plum, scorched earth and pressed flower aromas that open nicely in the glass, suggesting decanting would be beneficial. The palate is medium-bodied, with very fine tannins and impressive freshness, the broody dark fruit carrying the 17 months of new Allier oak with ease. It is slightly pinched on the finish, although it should open nicely with a couple of years in bottle, as it displays fine delineation from start to finish. Drink 2015-2022. My first visit to Emporda was to Castillo Perelada, one of the driving forces behind the resurgence of viticulture in this region, where I undertook a comprehensive tasting of both present and past releases. Wine has been made at the Castillo since medieval times. Then in 1923, wealthy businessman Miguel Mateu bought the estate and he sought to revive winemaking tradition both here and in Emporda itself. I tasted the wines with his grandson Javier Suque. He explained how they are using satellite technology to map the vineyard, to such an extent that it made Bordeaux seem Luddite in comparison. It was an interesting set of wines with notable successes and others that missed the mark, and it was also fascinating to taste a vertical of the “Ex Ex” series of experimental wines that customers can subscribe to. The concept here is not to create the ultimate wine each year, but to try new things, toy with varieties and picking dates, to learn from experience. As you can see, the results I found were hit and miss, but I applaud someone who tries out new things and those that do subscribe are in for a ride. Following this, I was afforded an illuminating vertical of previous vintages, some of which have been rated by The Wine Advocate in previous issues. This vertical led me to one simple conclusion: Finca Garbet works best as a pure Syrah, as was the case in 2005 and 2007. The addition of Cabernet Sauvignon seems to knock it off balance and is distracting. I also tasted through a vertical of Castillo Perlada’s experimental “Ex Ex” series. The first two Ex Ex wines were sourced from the “Malaveina” vineyard. Importer: Perelada Comercial, NY; www.perladacomercial.com

The 2008 Finca Malaveina is sourced from red clay slopes with pebbles that facilitate drainage. It is a blend of 50% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Syrah and Garnacha aged for 16 months in new Bordeaux barrels. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it gives up aromas of toasty oak, mineral, herbs, smoky black fruit, and lavender. More structured on the palate than the Malavina cuvee, it will reward 3-4 years of cellaring. This dense, lengthy effort will be at its best from 2015 to 2023. Importer: Perelada USA; www.castilloperelada.com