Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Les Ursules Blanc de Noirs, Champagne, France

布夏爾公爵蘇林白中黑香檳

點擊次數(shù)：5570

The Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules may very well be one of the finest Pinot Noir wines of Champagne. Stunning aromatics meld into a finessed, layered expression of Pinot fruit, all wrapped into a silky-textured frame of profound beauty. The wine possesses striking clarity and detail, a fine mousse and an eternal finish. This too is 100% 2006 juice that spent 28 months on its lees and was bottled with no dosage. This bottle was disgorged in July, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018.The explosive, kaleidoscopic Champagnes of Cedric Bouchard are some of the most compelling wines coming out of the region today. Quite simply, this set of new releases left me speechless and literally shaking my head in awe. Readers should do whatever they can to experience these magnificent wines. Bouchard farms just under three hectares of vineyards. There are two ranges; the Inflorescence wines are made from vineyards owned by Bouchard's father, while the Roses de Jeanne wines are made from vineyards Bouchard owns himself. The vineyards are cropped to yields that would be considered miniscule in any region in the world, but are shockingly low compared to the average in Champagne, where high yields are prevalent. Because of the low yields, the wines reveal a very fine and subtle mousse. The wines are made from hand harvested fruit, crushed by foot and fermented with natural yeasts. Bouchard prefers stainless steel, as he believes the neutrality of steel allows for the maximum amount of expression of his philosophy, which is single-vineyard,single vintage and single-variety bottlings. The wines are neither fined nor filtered and are disgorged with no dosage. Unfortunately the wines do not carry a disgorgement date on the label, although I am told that will be changing next year.A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Bouchard’s NV (2008) Blanc de Noirs Roses de Jeanne les Ursules is a mid-weight, precise Champagne layered with green apples, pears, jasmine, spices and minerals. There is a somewhat ethereal quality to the 2008 Ursules I find highly appealing. The signature Bouchard precision is amply evident throughout, leading to a kaleidoscopic, thrilling finish. This tastes very much like 2008 still wines did in barrel, and my guess is that it will require at least a few years in bottle to offer its finest drinking. The wine kept improving in the glass, pointing to a very bright future. Simply put, this is a fabulous Ursules. Disgorged July, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Once again, I was blown away by the wines I tasted from Cedric Bouchard. What else is new? My visit to the property earlier in the year was a revelatory experience. I got a little lost navigating my way through the sleepy village of Celles-sur-Ource, but when I happened along a meticulous, obsessively tended vineyard I knew I was close to the cellar. As exceptional as the young wines were, I was most struck by the capacity of these Champagnes to develop complexity in bottle. The 2004 Haute-Lemblee, which I scored 97 points two years ago, is living up to all of its promise, while the 2002 Creux d’Enfer, a wine I reviewed in my recent profile on Bouchard on www.erobertparker.com, left me speechless. Readers seeking to discover the finest in Champagne owe it to themselves to check out the wines of Cedric Bouchard. Minuscule yields, organically farmed old-vine parcels, a non-interventionalist approach in the winery and cellar and Bouchard’s inspired vision elevate these single-vintage, lieu-dit wines to the summit of Champagne. The wines are bottled unfined, unfiltered and with no dosage, leaving only the indelible stamp of vintage, vineyard and grape variety as interpreted by this immensely gifted vigneron. For what it is worth, these are some of the most treasured bottles I own.A Thomas Calder Selection, imported by Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404