The superb 2008 Cartus is a blend of 74% Garnacha and 26% Carinena from 90- to 110-year-old vines that are raised for 18 months in new French oak. It demonstrates more delineation on the nose than the Gran Clos, with very ripe black cherries, bilberry, iodine and crushed violets wrapped up in warm alcohol. The palate is full-bodied with dense blackberry, boysenberry and minerals. It displays fine delineation with harmony and focus towards the finish. This is certainly the best wine within the present portfolio. Drink 2016-2030. Importer: Palm Bay International, FL; tel. (561) 362-9642

The 2006 Cartus, a blend of 75% Garnacha and the rest Carinena from a very warm vintage, comes in a huge bottle that looks almost like a magnum and wears an equally heavy price tag. The nose is ripe, with developed aromas of black fruit and some bottle-aging bouquet, but the palate seems to be drying out and has plenty of notes coming from the oak as well as balsamic aromas and flavors. A huge red for fans of the style that should be drunk soon with powerful food. Drink now. The winery, created in 1995 by Jose Manuel Fuentes, changed hands in 2004 and also expanded the wine range with some single-vineyard wines, which I found to be good but not outstanding. Importer: Esprit du Vin French Wine Merchants & Select European Estates, Port Washington, NY; tel. (516) 802-4726