The 2001 Chianti Classico Riserva, floral and fragrant with its nose of red fruit and violets, is silky and well sustained in flavor. It will drink well for another 8 years. Cennatoio is unlikely to be a household word even among connoisseurs of Tuscan wines, but this small estate (40 acres of vineyards), located high in the hills above Panzano at close to 1800 feet above sea level, is capable of making outstanding wine in favorable vintages. The line is far too crowded with different wines, and owner Leandro Alessi, despite the encouragement of his winemaker Gabriella Tani, seems loath to reduce the number. With a more focused line, the wines would unquestionably have a larger, and well deserved, visibility, but these are matters which cannot be resolved here.Importer: Panebianco, New York, NY; tel. (212) 685-7560