Cesani’s 2008 Chianti Colli Senesi Ireos is a rustic yet pleasing Chianti with pretty varietal notes of red cherries, tobacco and earthiness. This is a delicate, fragrant Chianti best enjoyed over the next year or so while the fruit remains fresh. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2010. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

Vincenzo Cesani has a well deserved reputation for the red wines he makes at his San Gimignano estate, and the 2003 Chianti Colli Senesi Irios, far more than the usual easy-drinking wine, is a good example of what he can do. Fuller, riper, and rounder than one might imagine, its clean and focused fruit and crisp, refreshing close provide much immediate drinking pleasure. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898