There are those who regard Pinot Blanc as a throw-away wine. Those people are wrong. In the hands of winemaker Dan Karlsen, the varietal takes on a depth and richness that would challenge anyone’s Chardonnay, while still maintaining its varietal character. The center is creamy and layered, with nutty peach and apricot fruit.——L.W.(3/1/2000)—— 92