The superb 1994 Chardonnay Reserve is extremely youthful, backward, and full-bodied, with a smoky, earthy, buttery, and mineral-scented nose, huge, chewy flavors, crisp acidity, and outstanding extraction. An enjoyable wine of restraint and impeccable equilibrium, it is 1-3 years away from full maturity. It is a candidate for a decade's worth of aging.Tel. (707) 254-4200; Fax (707) 254-4201

All three of these Chardonnays are tight, promising, full-bodied wines that require additional cellaring. The Reserve Chardonnay is a tight, promising, full-bodied wine that requires additional cellaring. It is a backward, Burgundian-styled wine with well-integrated acidity, full body, and outstanding depth, richness, and length. This closed Chardonnay is in need of 1-3 years of cellaring. It promises to age gracefully for 6-10 years.Tel. (408) 678-1717.

All three of these Chardonnays are tight, promising, full-bodied wines that require additional cellaring. The Reserve Chardonnay is a tight, promising, full-bodied wine that requires additional cellaring. It is a backward, Burgundian-styled wine with well-integrated acidity, full body, and outstanding depth, richness, and length. This closed Chardonnay is in need of 1-3 years of cellaring. It promises to age gracefully for 6-10 years.Tel. (408) 678-1717.

The 1990 Chardonnay Estate Reserve is even richer than the regular bottling, with great depth and fullness, as well as 10-15 years of aging potential.

The 1992 releases are light, which has more to do with the vintage than any abandonment by Chalone of their rich, full-bodied, oaky style of wine. Both the Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc are good, but they do not possess the body or intensity of the Chalone offerings in 1989, 1990, and 1991.