Califa is the winery’s highest designation, kind of a reserve, and this Syrah is oakier and riper than the regular Chamisal bottling, although fully as dry. Marked with high, minty acidity and firm tannins. But there’s huge red and black cherry fruit, courtesy of one of the hottest vintages in Edna Valley history. Elegant and intense, it’s ready now.——S.H.(8/1/2007)—— 89