When I visited the estate in July, the 96s had recently been assembled in large stainless steel tanks. They will not be available in the US until mid-1998. Yves Soulez feels he is finally beginning to understand the Les Tetueres terroir. Having tasted both the 95 and 96 offerings I was struck by the jump in quality in the 1996 Coteaux du Layon-Chaume Les Tetueres. Revealing honeyed liquid mineral scents and a hugely rich, thick, full-bodied personality, this wine is jam-packed with quince jelly, lemon zest, honeysuckle and slate-like flavors. The depth and complexity of this compelling wine is something to behold. As its seemingly unending finish slowly fades on the palate, notes of white and black truffles, poached pears and apricots appear. This is truly a great wine! Projected maturity: 2000-2020.Importer: World Shippers, Philadelphia, PA; tel: (215) 732-2018.

The 1995 Coteaux du Layon-Chaume Les Tetueres is the most extracted, viscous and concentrated of Chateau de la Genaiserie's 1995s. Exhibiting scents of mangoes, quince and honey, this is a massively thick, rich, layered and full-bodied wine with good balance. Flavors of poached pears, ripe peaches and apricots are intermingled with notes of herbal teas. Anticipated maturity: 1999-2012.Importer: World Shippers, Philadelphia, PA; tel: (215) 732-2018.