Proprietor Carole Arnaud fashions limited quantities of Chateauneuf du Pape Lea Conti from 80-90-year old Grenache vines. The brilliant 2003 is a deep, full-bodied effort offering aromas and flavors of raspberries, cherries, currants, spring flowers, melted licorice, and a touch of new barriques. Powerful in the mouth (the alcohol must exceed 15%), this is a large-scaled yet impeccably well-balanced, pure, rich, and moderately tannic wine. Give it 2-3 years of bottle age after its release next year, and drink it over the following 15-17 years. An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Charmer Industries, NY; tel. (718) 726-2500, Southern Wine and Spirits, CA; tel. (510) 487-3332, Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284, and Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400

The limited, 100-case cuvee of 2000 Chateauneuf du Pape Lea Conti is a heady, intense concoction of kirsch liqueur intermixed with melted licorice and smoke. Full-bodied, with loads of licorice, moderate tannin, and a sweet, expansive fleshiness, it should last until 2015-2016. An Alain Corcia Selection, various American importers, including Charmer Industries, NY; tel. (718) 726-2500, Southern Wine and Spirits, CA; tel. (510) 487-3332, Premier Wines, CA; tel. (510) 237-6284,and Calvert Woodley Wines, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-4400; and Parliament Wines, Atlantic City, NJ; tel. (609) 348-1100