As the AOC regulations don’t permit moncepage wines, this wine is coded with M for Mourvedre, which accounts for 90% of the blend. Aged in one-third new oak, it boasts smoke, plum and blackberry fruit along with hints of game and cola. There’s lots of flavor intensity but also plenty of tannin, making it a bit firm on the finish right now; try in 2010.——J.C.(7/1/2008)—— 87