The Gres Satin Paul 2007 Coteaux du Languedoc Cuvee Romanis – Syrah with 30% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre assembled in tank, but not bottled when I tasted it last December – is strikingly marked by iodine and wet stone; brimming with ripe blackberry and blueberry, and alluringly, soothingly creamy in texture even as it remains refreshing and bright. This makes a wonderful stylistic statement about the potential for both richness and refinement with refreshment and without weight. Look for it to keep well for at least 3-4 years although it won’t need to be cellared, but above all, look for it if you want outstanding value. Located in Lunel, near the coast just north of Montpelier, Chateau Gres Saint Paul is one of the pioneering estates to have demonstrated red wine excellence in a windy, gravelly environment traditionally know for its sweet Muscat. From the standpoint of terroir, Lunel is more like the Costieres des Nimes or Chateauneuf than like other parts of the Languedoc. Philippe Salasc – former proprietor of Domaine Capion in his home town of Aniane, and collaborator with Chateau owner Jean-Philippe Serviere since 1996 – reflects a sentiment much abroad these days in the Languedoc when he says “being the South, we don’t need to take any extreme measures. I prefer to substitute length of maceration for degree of extraction, and to work the skins very little.” The team here is moving away from barrique and to the use of exclusively tank and large oak casks.No current U.S. importer, unfortunately, but Canadian importers include Lexcellent Wines, Toronto, Ontario; tel. (416) 461-4577

The 2006 Coteaux du Languedoc Romanis is (like the 2007) raised in tank to emphasize fresh fruit and immediate drink-ability. Mission accomplished: this is momentarily a tad reductive in the nose, but then opens to reveal ripe black fruits, thyme, and marjoram, all of which follow on a luscious, polished palate. Toasted nuts and beef marrow lend depth, and a lick of salt adds a lip-smacking accent to this lovely wine’s long and engaging finish. Surely it will be worth following for at least 2-3 more years. What’s more, given its ex-cellars price, it represents an outstanding value. (I’m basing my assessments of value on ex-cellars trade prices and Canadian retails; these wines are currently absent from the U.S. market.) Located in Lunel, near the coast just north of Montpelier, Chateau Gres Saint Paul is one of the pioneering estates to have demonstrated red wine excellence in a windy, gravelly environment traditionally know for its sweet Muscat. From the standpoint of terroir, Lunel is more like the Costieres des Nimes or Chateauneuf than like other parts of the Languedoc. Philippe Salasc – former proprietor of Domaine Capion in his home town of Aniane, and collaborator with Chateau owner Jean-Philippe Serviere since 1996 – reflects a sentiment much abroad these days in the Languedoc when he says “being the South, we don’t need to take any extreme measures. I prefer to substitute length of maceration for degree of extraction, and to work the skins very little.” The team here is moving away from barrique and to the use of exclusively tank and large oak casks.No current U.S. importer, unfortunately, but Canadian importers include Lexcellent Wines, Toronto, Ontario; tel. (416) 461-4577