The 2009 Merlot shows good up-front juiciness in its super-ripe dark fruit, spices, mint and licorice. The aromas and flavors flesh out nicely in the glass, even if some of the excitement of St. Jean’s other entry-level wines is missing. A dollop of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon were added in the final blend. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. This is a fabulous set of wines from Chateau St. Jean, winemaker Margo Van Staaveren and her team. From top to bottom, these wines deliver tons of value and character.Tel. (707) 833-4134, www.chateaustjean.com

Run, don’t walk, to find this rich Merlot. It shows vast berry, currant, mocha, licorice and cola flavors, wrapped into superfine tannins and balanced with fine acidity. Easy to find, with 7,600 cases produced.——S.H.(12/15/2010)—— 93